Where to Buy a Saint Bernard
What is a saint Bernard?
Origin/History
The Saint Bernard is known as the national dog of Switzerland, and was named after the monk who, in the 10th Century, founded a hospice to care for travelers on the perilous routes through the Swiss Alps. The first dogs were Alpine Mastiffs, initially used to guard property, but with the discovery of their rescue abilities their role was changed. These dogs were the ancestors of the modern St Bernard.
By the 18th Century the role of the dogs had changed and they were being used for rescue work, locating lost and stranded travelers. The monks were using new blood to develop bigger dogs and it is thought that the Newfoundland and the Bloodhound might have contributed to the new type. Certainly the dogs became larger and longer coated. The outcrossing was disputed by some of the monks as they felt that a longer coat would ice up, so some of stock was purposely kept which remained close to the original short-coated type. Hence the breed still has long coated and smooth coated specimens today. The breed retained the name of Alpine Mastiffs well into the 19th Century, and it was not until 1888 that the modern title of St Bernard was adopted.
What is her General appearance?
Well proportioned and of great substance.
The Mini Saint Bernard stands at 16 to 20 inches tall and weighs about 40 to 60 pounds when fully grown.
They have a life span of about 8-10 years and even older if well taken care of.
The Mini Saint Bernards reaches it’s full size at the age of about 2-3 years.
A male Standard Saint Bernard’s height stands at 28 and 30 inches, and he can weigh between 140 and 180 pounds. The female’s height stands at 26 and 28 inches, and she may weigh between 120 and 140 pounds when fully grown..
They have a life span of about 8-10 years and even older if well taken care of.
The Standard Saint Bernards reaches it’s full size at the age of about 2-3 years.
What is her Characteristics?
Distinctly marked, large-sized, mountain-rescue dog.
What is her Temperament ?
Steady, kindly, intelligent, courageous, trustworthy and benevolent.
Head and skull
Large, circumference of skull being more than double its length. Muzzle short, full in front of eye and square at nose end. Cheeks flat, great depth from eye to lower jaw. Lips deep but not too pendulous. From nose to stop perfectly straight and broad. Stop somewhat abrupt and well defined. Skull broad, slightly rounded at top, with fairly prominent brow. Nose large and black with well-developed nostrils.
Eyes
Of medium size, neither deep set nor prominent, eyelids should be reasonably tight. Excessive haw must be heavily penalized. Dark in color and not staring. There should be no excessive loose wrinkle on brow which would detract from a healthy eye. Free from obvious eye problems.
Ears
Medium size, lying close to cheeks, not heavily feathered.
Mouth
Jaws strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws. Well developed teeth of good size.
Neck
Long, thick, muscular, slightly arched, dewlap well developed.
Forequarters
Shoulders broad and sloping, well up at withers. Legs straight, strong in bone, of good length.
Body
Back broad, level, ribs well rounded. Loin wide, very muscular. Broad croup sloping slightly to set on of tail. Chest wide and deep, but never projecting below elbows.
Hindquarters
Broad, strong and well muscled. Legs heavy in bone. Moderate bend of stifle with firm, strong hocks. Well developed first and second thighs. When viewed from the rear the hindlegs are perfectly straight, turning neither in nor out and not too close together. Straight hocks are highly undesirable.
Feet
Large, compact with well-arched toes.
Tail
Set on rather high, long, carried low when in repose, when excited or in motion should not curl over back.
Gait/movement
Easy extension, unhurried and smooth, with power from the hindquarters. Back remaining level and firm. The feet should move along straight lines with the rear feet tracking the fore. Capable of covering difficult terrain. Absolute soundness essential.
Coat
Roughs: dense and flat, rather fuller round neck, thighs and tail well feathered.
Smooths: close and hound-like, slight feathering on thighs and tail.
Color
Orange, mahogany-brindle, red-brindle, white with patches on body of any of the above named colors. Markings as follows: White muzzle, white blaze on face, white collar, white chest, white forelegs, feet and end of tail, black shadings on face and ears.
Size
Minimum height: dogs 75 cms (30 ins), bitches 70 cms (28 ins). Size is desirable but only if combined with quality, correct balance and absolute soundness.
Faults
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog and on the dog’s ability to perform its traditional work.
How much is a Saint Bernard Puppy?
A Saint Bernard puppy from a reputable breeder should range from $900 to $1500 .
If you want to buy a Saint Bernard puppy from a reputable breeder , then visit the website below named Valley Ranch Saint Bernards.
What are some reputable websites where you can buy a Saint Bernard Puppy?
Where to Buy a Saint Bernard
Below you will find several websites where you can find a reputable breeder to buy a well trained Saint Bernard Puppy.
1, Greenfieldpuppies
2, Valleyranchsaintbernards
3,Lancasterpuppies
4,puppies.com
What To Do When Taking Your Puppy Home
You need to make the same preparations for the puppy, and think about the supplies you will need, and the new puppy’s activities, feeding and health care check-up.
Equipment
Your Saint Bernard is going to need a room or at least a place he can call his own, and a cage or crate will fill this bill. You are better off getting one that is big enough for him to use as an adult.
The pup will need food and water bowls, toys to chew on and play with, a bag of a good quality dry puppy food.
We provide a collar and leash, and half a bag of the food the puppy has been eating.
and plenty of newspapers or training pads if you are going to house train him/her inside.
The car ride home or after the puppy arrives through shipping
The big day arrives, and it is off to pick up the new puppy. Coming home will start out with a car ride. Try to keep this from being an overly stressful experience for the pup. The main problem dogs have with car rides usually is not what we humans refer to as motion sickness, but simple anxiety about the vibrations, sounds, and to a lesser degree, the movement. Many dogs that have developed problems with car rides get nervous or even nauseous before the engine is even started. It is important that this first trip not be a bad experience that regresses into a repetitious behavioral pattern.
Before you leave, try to get the pup to go to the bathroom so there are no floods or surprises stimulated by all the excitement of the ride. On this first trip home, we break a cardinal rule about traveling with pets. We do not put them in a crate for traveling. Remember, they are small and easy to hold. Rather, we have someone other than the driver hold the puppy in a blanket or towel and talk or in some way try to distract him from the ride. If you have a long way to go and need to stop for the puppy to relieve himself, do not use a highway rest stop. At his young age, the puppy has very little, if any, protection from common dog diseases, and these areas can easily be contaminated with the organisms causing these conditions.
Being with people the first day home
Leaving her mother and littermates will probably bring about some anxiety. However, this can be greatly diminished if you plan your schedules so that you will be home with the puppy the first 3 to 4 days. Some authors suggest leaving the puppy alone and give her time to herself to adjust to the new surroundings. We disagree. In our homes, we plan for this introductory period by keeping the puppy involved with plenty of attention from children and other family members. When we are not with the puppy, she is sleeping. You will be amazed how time spent in this manner will speed up the housebreaking process. If the children are young or are not familiar with how to handle puppies, you should spend some time with them during these first few days explaining common sense rules on how to play with the puppy.
Feeding the puppy
[Puppy eating] What, when, and how to feed puppies becomes a major issue on the first day. Many new owners worry that without his mother’s milk, their pup is going to have a hard time adjusting to his new home. It is a good idea to continue feeding the same type and brand of food for at least a few days. Most people are soon surprised how well puppies make it through this transition because they do not understand how far along dogs are in their development at 7 weeks of age.
Most puppies start eating dog food at 21 days of age. Even though their eyes did not open until 11 to 13 days old, just ten days later, puppies are ready to start on something in addition to Mom’s milk. We take dry puppy food, soak it in warm water for thirty minutes, goats milk, plain yogurt and then give it to the litter when they are 21 days old. The first day, they may only stick their noses in it and try to lick some of the liquid. But after that, they eat and they eat very well.
As soon as possible, the amount of goats milk mixed in the food is decreased, and then finally eliminated. This depends on how fast the teeth are coming in. We always tell all new puppy owners to use a dry food formulated for puppies. Most 7 week old dogs can eat this, as it comes from the bag, without any problem
Getting a health check
One of the first things you need to do is get the puppy into a veterinarian for an initial puppy examination.
Our puppies are raised in a non-kennel environment where they are allowed to experience the world as they grow. They are taken out for little romps and walks on our property. They walk over the ground where the deer have been, the chatty squirrel that loves to tease them, and the numerous roaming cats that love to search for mice in the fields. Our puppies enjoy learning about life and living in the real world, which means they are exposed to real world things, like giardia and coccidia. We do everything we can to prevent this but we will not restrict our puppies to a kennel life. Puppies can be infected with giardia by simple things such as walking over dirt and licking their paws, drinking water from a puddle, licking the grass where a wild bird pooped, etc.
Many families who receive puppies take them in for a vet exam the first few days. The vet will do a well check, which sometimes includes doing a fecal test. Please be aware that only the expensive SNAP test is a conclusive one, so any other test is not 100% reliable. There can be false positives or negatives. If they do run the SNAP test and it shows giardia, they will likely want to treat with metronidazole or fenbendazole even if your puppy is not symptomatic. If coccidia shows up in a fecal test, that is common. Research is showing that EVERY dog harbors this in their system.
Where to Buy a Saint Bernard
Conclusion.
From what you have read above, you should be able to know where you can buy a Saint Bernard puppy from a reputable Breeder Online.